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Mechanisms controlling crescentic bar amplitude

机译:控制新月形条幅度的机制

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摘要

The formation of crescentic bars from self-organization of an initially straight shore-parallel bar for shore-normal incident waves is simulated with a two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamical model. The aim is to investigate the mechanisms behind the saturation process defined as the transition between the linear regime (maximum and constant growth of the crescentic pattern) and the saturated state (negligible growth). The global properties of the morphodynamical patterns over the whole computational domain are studied (“global analysis”). In particular, consideration of the balance of the potential energy of the emerging bar gives its growth rate from the difference between a production term (related to the positive feedback leading to the instability) and a damping term (from the gravity-driven downslope transport). The production is approximately proportional to the average over the domain of the cross-shore flow velocity times the bed level perturbation. The damping is essential for the onset of the saturation, but it remains constant while the production decreases. Thus, it is notable that the saturation occurs because of a weakening of the instability mechanism rather than an increase of the damping. A reason for the saturation of the crescentic bar growth is the change in bar shape from its initial stage rather than the growth in amplitude itself. This change is mainly characterized by the narrowing of the rip channels, the onshore migration of the crests, and the change in the mean beach profile due to alongshore variability. These properties agree with observations of mature rip channel systems in nature.
机译:利用二维水平形态动力学模型模拟了最初为岸法向入射波的笔直海岸平行杆的自组织形成的月牙形条。目的是研究饱和过程背后的机制,该过程定义为线性状态(新月形图案的最大和恒定增长)和饱和状态(可忽略不计的增长)之间的过渡。研究了整个计算域上的形态动力学模式的全局特性(“全局分析”)。特别是,考虑到新兴棒的势能平衡,可以根据生产项(与导致不稳定性的正反馈有关)和阻尼项(由重力驱动的下坡传输)之间的差来得出其增长率。 。产量大约与跨岸流速范围内的平均值乘以床位扰动成比例。阻尼对于饱和的开始是必不可少的,但是当产量降低时,阻尼保持恒定。因此,值得注意的是,饱和是由于不稳定机制的削弱而不是阻尼的增加而发生的。月牙形条增长饱和的原因是条形从其初始阶段开始的变化,而不是幅度本身的增长。这种变化的主要特征是裂隙河道变窄,波峰在岸上的迁移以及由于沿岸变化而造成的平均海滩剖面的变化。这些性质与自然界中成熟的裂隙通道系统的观察结果一致。

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